Copenhagen 2026

Copenhagen has been on our list for a long time but in recent years, it moved very high on the list because we kept hearing such amazing things from everyone that went. Originally, we debated a full Scandinavian trip to include Sweden and Norway, but we realized that we want to see Norway via cruise in the fjords, and we think that might be best saved for an adult only luxurious small cruise so we tabled that. Instead, we put together a London, Paris, Copenhagen, Scotland experience and suffice it to say that this was the STAR of the show. It was my, Niko’s and George’s favorite city from the trip and Leo’s 2nd favorite (to Edinburgh). I have spent the past few weeks trying to distill my emotions about this city so that I could properly articulate to all of you as to why we’re crazy about it.

I think the answer is that it is an all around, incredibly pleasing to the senses, easy to navigate, electric city without the madness of the crowds that you feel in other places. Of course it was busy in the summer, but it never felt overwhelming. We booked 5 nights (I actually thought it was only 4 until we got there – but was not mad about the extra night) and it was plenty of time to explore.

The huge cherry on top for this trip for us is that our friends Irina and Bibek (who boys and I had just seen in Paris), surprised the family by joining us there. I was the only one that knew and although George had his suspicions that they would find a way to show up somewhere along our trip, he wasn’t quite sure how and when the surprise would happen. I love orchestrating a surprise so much but I also have the worst game face so am not the best at it.

We stayed at an Airbnb about 25 minutes walking from the heart of the city, Nyhaven street. (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/796878383174252616?source_impression_id=p3_1785604388_P3v1bvDllfG3b31j) We loved this apartment, so spacscious, across the street from an incredible bakery and bar and walking distance to everything we wanted to do. We had a small incident where we got locked into the bedroom and George had to knock down the door because of a faulty lock in the night, but you know, things happen. Our host handled it very well and immediately remediated.

Eats

Flindt & Osrsted – Inside a park, next to our Airbnb, this was our first stop for a coffee and it was a great place to visit if in the area.
TorvehallernKBH Food Hall – I would say this is a destination visit. We happened to stay just a few blocks away but even if you are further, I would suggest coming here. It’s a really manageable food hall with international flavors as well as traditional Danish fronts. We went straight for the Smorrebrod (traditional open faced sandwiches). Often on dark rye, lots of tinned fish, but also options of meatballs or chicken salad. We got an assortment and devoured them. They also had a great olive bar, tapas, sushi and of course gelato spot. The highlight for me was the fresh fruit stand. I am a sucker for colorful fruit and vegetable markets, it just brings me so much joy to look at produce. Is that weird? Probably. I stumbled upon gooseberries, which were incredible!! I am sure I have had them since Belarus, but my only recollection was enjoying them when I was a little girl in the old motherland.
Reffen Food Market – a solid 30 minute walk from Nyhaven, Reffen is a lively Food fest that was in a converted dock/industrial setting. You really can’t go wrong with 30+ international vendors, a playground, outdoor benches, beach chairs in the sand on the canal and a glorious view of the sunset. They have live music often as well. There is a line of taxis waiting so don’t worry about how you will get back if you don’t want to walk.
BankeRat – Across from our Airbnb, this was a gem. Coffee in the morning, dinner and drinks at night along with some board games and a chess board. My favorite part of this spot is that they had these large windows and they turned their little couches facing outward so your feet kind of hung outside. Picture below but once we walked by it, I knew I needed my own moment there and it was perfect.
Riviera bakery – Also across the street, this bakery always had a line. I didn’t see it on any of the “top bakery” lists however I think it deserves a ranking.
The Admiral Hotel – Our friends stayed here and if you are looking for a centrally located, nice hotel experience, this is a win. There is a great outdoor restaurant that makes for a great stop for drinks at sunset or really any time of day. They also have a pool there but note to the wise that you need to reserve your time spot even as a hotel guest. You can also book boat tours through the hotel.
Tight Restaurant – We stumbled upon this place and had a great time. No particular dish was a standout, but it was a cozy place and everyone felt like they had a solid meal.
Barr Restaurant – Ok, let the debates begin. In the old Noma space (once the world’s top restaurant), Barr has a great vibe and everyone writes about it. We got reservations for lunch, casual vibe with the kids was no issue. Dua Lipa says they have the best schnitzel there which Leo loved (we’ll get back to Dua in a minute). Personally, of the 4 adults, I was most impressed with it. The plaice fish smorrebord was a stunner, as was the potato one. There were some comments about wanting more heat or more dynamic flavors, but for me, it was perfect. No regrets about going and not crazy price so I consider this a great stop.
Hart Bakery – A former Noma pastry chef opened up a few Hart locations. We were diligent in our bakery research and I will say that I was very impressed. A stand out here was a poppyseed situation, although I also hear great things about the cardamom bun.
Juno the Bakery – In a quieter neighborhood outside the center, hands down best cardamom bun. I know I haven’t tried them all, BUT, there was some serious magic in this one. The line was long, but the wait worth it. I think the thing that probably made this bun extra special was that it was warm, exceptionally soft and fluffy and basted in what appeared to be butter. Everything else we tried there was on point. My advice, get more cardamom buns than you think you need or you’ll be fighting over them with your loved ones. You’ve been warned.
Anderson & Maillard – Another one on many lists. We got there when we were craving savory, so enjoyed some sourdough and cheese and none other than butter sandwiches. Tasty! I especially liked going here because it took us down a gem of a street with a cool vibe.
Farunhaus – This was our first bakery experience, kids went crazy for the cinnamon bun situation and this is where I had my first cardamom bun. So overall, a great stop.
Broens Street Food – Next to Barr and just over the Nyhaven bridge is a fantastic outdoor food court. Again, lots of international options, easy picnic style seating, and a simple way to delight different cravings. Our little (and big) Greeks were incredibly pleased with the chicken gyros. I didn’t try but Gasoline Grill (that has many locations) is famous for their smash burger and was also a hit.
Poulette – Ok, back to Dua Lipa. So for some reason, my IG is bombarded with Dua Lipa and Calum Turner content. I don’t follow either of them but I once clicked on a picture and here we are, IG thinks it knows me and is just flooding me. That is a whole other topic, but somewhere along the way, I got fed a list of Dua’s favorite places to eat all over the world. So, I stumbled upon Copenhagen and Poulette was on the list. My boys are chicken sandwich novices, with their favorite being Red Light Chicken in Chicago. Shout out to their use of beef tallow which not only enhances the flavor but also minimizing the crappy feeling you often have with other oils. But I digress. So back to Poulette. It was about 15 minutes from our Airbnb in the opposite direction of the center. I really liked that neighborhood over the bridge and the small lakes. There was a line, the menu is limited but I have to hand it to them, they know what they are doing with the chicken sandwiches. They were spicy, incredible flavor of both the chicken thigh and the seasoning and the crispiness factor was well executed. Thin breading and crispy without feeling like you are eating all breadcrumbs. They still honored the chicken itself. All around it was a great experience and Niko is standing here telling me that “you should definitely go, there is no reason or scenario for skipping it”. All that said, Red Light continues to be their favorite.
Olufs Is – A higher end ice cream shop that serves unique flavored ice cream bars. Very solid but most stunning is not the place but the street it is on, Olufsvej. With the help of my friends at Claude, I was on a quest to find the most “charming” streets in Copenhagen and it did not disappoint. It is one block of colorful townhomes and it just brought us so much joy.
Baest Pizza – This one is on also on many lists – known for their unique flavored pizzas. In a cool part of town, across from a brewery that you can go to before or after, we enjoyed! If you are a classical pizza flavor person, just be prepared that a lot of the flavors mix various proteins, veggies and cheeses. I thought they were delicious, crispy thin sourdough crusts and my pizza had a kale situation (thanks Rachel for the rec) which is always a way to my heart. (See above for me being weird and feeling calm with produce).
Kong Hans Kaelder – We did not go but our friends did and said that this 5 hour, fine dining experience, was the BEST meal of their lives (and they are no strangers to good food).
Confecture Copenhagen – Gelato and chocolate stop for the win.

Sites

Orstedsparken – We stayed right by this park and loved it.
Round Tower – No need for tickets in advance, you can walk right up and enjoy a quick but steep climb up to the top with a great view of the city. On the way down is a great little astronomical museum with a craft station which our little artist can never say no to.
Nyhaven – We are currently working on a puzzle of this street, it is the most famous part of the city, a long stretch of colorful buildings with restaurants and bars along the canal. You will probably end up there numerous times and it is so lovely every time.
Boat Tour – I would not skip seeing the city from the water. We LOVED our 3 hour boat tour https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/190954. We stopped and walked around an old fortress as well as had an informative tour around the city. Best to do this in the front of the trip so you can get a good feel for the city.
Tivoli Gardens – Ok friends, this is where things get dicey. EVERYONE raved about Tivoli and said it was a must. Of course, kids loved this incredible amusement park with rollercoasters centrally located in the city. I, not a rollercoaster or carnival person, nor do I like crazy crowds, could have easily skipped it. However, I recognize I am in the minority here and there were plenty of people without kids so I would say you should check it out.
Botanic Gardens and Butterfly Exhibit – We stumbled upon the Gardens and didn’t have enough time to really lounge around but it was very lovely. There was a butterfly exhibit that of course we couldn’t miss (butterfly is my symbol for the whole breast cancer journey). It was great, only caveat is that the greenhouses were unreasonably hot on an already hot day so we zipped through them.
Knipplesbro bridge – As we strolled around, we stumbled upon this bridge and found a cool little bar on the water next to it.
Amalienborg – We didn’t go inside but it was absolutely worth walking around. Royals, palace, guards, you get the drill. Make sure you see the gardens along the harbor, called the Kings Garden and then walk down along the way to Statue of David (yes, THAT David). Gefion Fountain is right there as well.
Vesterbero neighborhood – To get there, we had our first and only experience with the Danish train system (which operates on an “honor system’ for payment (MIND BLOWN)). It gave us more local neighborhood vibes and was fun to check out. On the walk back home, we walked through the Meat Packing District which is super cool. We didn’t eat there but a lot of great restaurants are there. On our walk back, we also stumbled upon the Planetarium for sunset views. Goreous.
Osterborg – This is the neighborhood where Juno bakery is. The vibe is slightly different than Vesterbero, but again, incredibly lovely and super family oriented. Lots of gorgeous parks, (Faelledparken). Olufsvej, mentioned above, is in this neighborhood.
Kastellet – This was a last day stop and I am surprised I didn’t have it on my radar sooner. This is an old fortress and there is a giant gorgeous old world windmill surrounded by prime green picnicking areas.
Freetown Christiana – It is hard to describe this little unincorporated area. It was unique to see and walk through but I was glad to leave – it is not my vibe. I encourage you to read up on it and the way of life the town is trying to promote.
Little Mermaid – The statue, inspired by the story, sits in the water and is a popular site. We saw it from the boat tour and that was probably enough. We ended up going by foot because we were in the area but I wouldn’t say you need to seek it out. Fun stories though about how it has toured the world and when on tour, there was a sign that said “on vacation, be back soon” or something along those lines. Additionally, whaling protestors dismembered the statue years ago.